POIPU , Kauai's principal beach resort, was hard hit by Iniki, but is now finally back to normal, offering great surfing and snorkeling. Its finest hotel is the sumptuous Hyatt Regency , 1571 Poipu Rd (tel 808/742-1234 or 1-800/554-9288, ; $250+), while Grantham Resorts (tel 808/742-7220 or 1-800/325-5701, ; $100-250+) quotes much lower prices for condos in the area than you'll be offered by individual properties. The best restaurants are two upmarket Pacific Rim options: Casa di Amici , 2360 Nalo Rd (tel 808/742-1555), and Roy's Poipu Bar & Grill (tel 808/742-5000), in the Poipu Shopping Village mall.